Until a few years ago, it seemed that the primary purpose of the Italian espresso "bar" was to tender the masses with cappuccini (the proper plural of "cappuccino") and brioche in the morning while fueling them with espresso shots over the remainder of the day. You could probably pick up a grilled panino at lunch here & there; but, for the most part, potato chips & green olives were the standard evening fare. Maybe there was a gradual evolution to finger sandwiches, but eventually some enterprising barman (whether a Torinese or a Milanese is a point of contention) took the quantum step-up-to-the-plate and introduced the all-you-can-eat buffet to Italian nightlife. All that was left was to cover the cost with a pricey cocktail, and "ecco la", the "Aperitivo" was born. Having spread like a spilled Spritz on your favorite cocktail dress, it's become so ingrained into the daily "Dolce Vita" that you'd swear Nero had sipped Mojito's and nibbled off of cocktail napkins as he watched Rome burn.
Now, don't forget we're talking about Italy here; so, banish any vision of piled-up carrot nubs & tooth-picked hotdog stubs. From the ubiquitous foccacia to quintessential Milanese "cold plates" like vitello tonnato (sliced veal roast with tuna fish mayonnaise) and nerveti (gristle from the veal shank, boiled, thinly sliced and served with oil, onion, parsley) the average Aperitivo spread will suit most any appetite. A note to travelers: If you happen to miss the 3 o'clock closing bell for lunch or need to nosh before the 8PM curtain rises at Teatro alla Scala, finding a good Aperitivo (which usually begin around 5:30) can be a fine alternate to traditional eating joints which don't open for dinner until after 7.
The Aperitivo thrives in pedestrian areas. So, when in Milano head to the likes of Corso Como, Garibaldi, Sempione by the park, and the Brera district. As you can imagine, their style & vibe vary as much as the people who flock to them. Aiming to cover the spread, Zio Tony has scoped-out a few for you along Corso Garibaldi:
Bar Cinque Stelle, “5 Stars” (8 Corso Garibaldi): Fitting into the “local crowd” category, the type of place to hang with friends without elbowing into a table or worrying about that tasty frittata vanishing before you get back to the buffet (usually stacked up on the bar)
In the Glass: Negrino Sbagliato, “Mistaken Negrino” (Martini Rossa, Campari, Spumanti.)
On the Plate (Cold): Rigatoni with asparagus, veal scaloppini with basil, raw fennel salad, vegetable frittata, breaded & fried peppers, casseroled potato & green beans.
Out of the Pocket: 5 Euro
Cafe Moscatelli (93 Corso Garibaldi): Less the typical espresso or hang-out bar and more a “Bottigilieria con Cucina”, Zio T rates the Moscatelli Aperitivo in the “Buona Forchetta” (Good Fork) category. The “cucina” uniquely offers "piatti caldi" (hot plates) and seemingly fresher “cold plates” than the typical catered buffet.
In the Glass: Aperol Spritz (Dry white wine, Aperol, Prosecco)
On the Plate (Warm & Cold): Farfalle pasta ragu, rigatoni with tomato, potato with wurst, mozzarella, foccacia, fried smelt, nerveti [taste & texture of savory rice noodles, but decidedly un-vegetarian!]
Out of the Pocket: 7 Euro
Gold Cafe (87 Corso Garibaldi): A place to see and be seen, you can recognize this type of Apperitivo by the perennial tans mixing to the DJ beat. The buffet may run deeper and have room for a wheel of Parmagiana; but, you're paying for the "flash".
In the Glass: Mojito (Rum, Sugar, Fresh Mint, Soda) [With no shortage of fresh mint in this town, next time I’ll order-up a Mint Julep!]
On the Plate (Cold): Cold meats & salumi, casseroled spinach, roasted fennel, tomato salad, some sort of fried cheese taco. [ I arrived "troppo ritardo" for the vitello tonnato :( ]
Out of the Pocket: 9 Euro
