Meet "Zio Tony Passoni": Honeymoon over the Bernina Pass

Ciao Zio Tony Fans! Well, I admit this introduction is a little over due. Back in November, I had written wistfully about meeting my new "_ride" in "The Day We Met" and a few weeks ago I announced that the "big day" had finally arrived. Naturally, our first outing was the "hard way" climb to Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo (if that only sounds like a bunch of Italian to you, check out "My Madonna of Bicycles"). But, actually we had ridden with the wheels from my old bike and I was still looking for a new set to compliment the new frame. This last weekend I found them in Tirano, Italy where I met Corrado Spada and picked up a pair of his fantasticly light carbon wheels - and then of course, went for a nice little ride. Think of it as a kind of "honeymoon" ... in Switzerland.



Back when I wrote that I was in the market for something "permanent and ITALIAN", I wasn't kidding. I can now say that I literally shook hands with the guys who made the custom fit, titanium frame (Passoni ) and built the light-weight carbon wheels (Corrado Spada). The carbon front fork and integral handlebar are "Made in Italy" too, by the"Profitably Conjugate Sports and Design" folks at Cinelli. (Only the drive train & brake components are "imported", Shimano DuraAce 7900).





And here's where I ran the "fully operational" ZT Passoni through the paces: along the Bernina pass between Tirano, Italy (A) and St Moritz, Switzerland (C). Actually, since the road just outside of Tirano was a bit rough for riding, I drove into Switzerland and started at a town called Poschiavo (B).



You can see Poschiano down in the valley at the distant right of this picture along with the road ascending from it. Beginning at an elevation of 1000 meters (3,280 feet), there was only one direction to follow for the next 18km (11 miles) ... UP



As you can tell, there was still plenty of snow about and the drifts only got higher, the higher I climbed; but, the road was in great condition ... and I was the only one on it, awesome.



Here's passing 7000 feet and still climbing. I'm moving alot of CO2 at this point; but, no pain, just a lot of "relaxed" concentration, looking for that last switchback and final crest ...


... to the top of Passo di Bernina at 2339 meters (7,644 feet) above Sea Level.



You can see the weather was beautiful and the temps were mild - plus, with all the climbing I stayed plenty warm, actually coming up in short sleeves. The descent however was a big brrrrrrr; so, I had donned a soft wool undershirt, long sleeves, and a windbreaker to make it bearable.

I hope you understand that I was a little busy coming down and the other side was busier with traffic of skiers coming of the slopes; so, I didn't snap any more photos until I got to St Moritz.


And then a great day got even better, hopping the scenic "Trenino Rosso" (Little Red Train) to cross back over the Bernina Pass to where I started in Poschiavo. The train and its route are actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and in the comfort of the train car I could leisurely soak up the amazing landscape ...




... which had, quite literally, just taken my breath away.

My Madonna of Bicycles, Part II: The Hard Way

Ciao Zio Tony fans! Welcome back, to Part II of "My Madonna of Bicycles: A Pilgrimage to the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo". Now that you’ve done your the homework in reading Part I, “Why is there a Madonna of Bicycles?”, you can sit back, relax, and let Zio Tony do the sweating as he takes on “il Ghisallo”, the Hard Way.

So, slip on your virtual biking shoes and enjoy the ride! Here’s our route:


We’ll start at Como (E), ride along the lake to Bellagio (B), and then suffer the pilgrims climb to Ghisallo (C) like the countless devout cyclists that have come before us. If you think you got the game, let’s take on another climb to the 3800 ft summit at Colma di Sormano (D) followed by a real yahooooo descent down to the lake and our return to Como.

The first thing we need to do is get there from central Milan. Driving from Milan doesn’t make much sense, because simply driving in Milan doesn’t make much sense. Did you know, the first time I came out to Ghisallo with Max we rode our bikes straight out from the city? Boy, talk about a road skills test! And, I hadn’t realized that there are so many Italians named “Coglione”; but, Max is one of those guys who seems to know everybody.

Anyway, I’m sure I’d get lost trying that on my own; so, let’s hop the regular hourly train instead. Here you go, just stable your mount next to Ole’ Paint here, up front with the engi... what, doesn’t your bike have a name?


Well, that was a bit of a maze getting down to the waterfront from the station and then onto the lake road; but, it looks like you’re getting the hang of it around here - “sempre dritto” as they say. Now, all we’ve got are some nice rollers to warm-up on and a few lakefront villages to ride through and we’ll be at Bellagio in no time. But, keep an eye out for those road-crossing pedestrians around here; you don’t want to be knocking down Mr. Clooney or his buddy Bobby DiNiro do ya?



... Well, we made it to Bellagio ... what, me? Procrastinating? Yeah, I know I made such a big deal about riding out here for that “holy” climb ... but, just one caffe’?


OK, you asked for it, see you on top! ...


... Ouch, that hurt. Let’s rest the ponies at the hitching post and check the place out.


If you’ve done your homework (Part I), I think you’ll recognize what you find inside.







And over here, by the overlook above Lake Lecco, next to the new cycling museum, do I have to point out the “Agony and the Ecstasy” theme again?



Wow, the Museo del Ciclismo is like the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum, but for bikes!



Enough lolly-gagging, fill up your bottle with holy water and let’s get on that climb to Colma di Sormano ...

... Ok, that hurt. Hey, imagine that, another Madonna on a mountain top?


Whatever, I’m hungry let’s eat!



You’re right, that polenta and brassato really looked good, but, a tad too heavy for riding. The fettuccine with capriolo ragu’ hit the spot for me. How was your rigatoni with wild mushrooms and mixed beans? Hey, you don’t mind if I take the lead down, do you? ...

Wow, what a great descent. It really keeps you on your toes ... and on that outside pedal. More than halfway down, and still, what a view!

You know, I really haven’t been riding for that long; but, I’m gonna cry when I have to leave this place.


Way to go, nice strong finish back to Como! The scenery really gets you grooving, doesn't it? Makes you want to feel the burn, feel alive, huh? Well, I’m in no hurry now, the train doesn’t leave for 45 minutes. Want to take another caffe’?

Cir-Como-Navigate

Ciao Zio Tony Fans! Springtime is beginning to roll around again, slowly raising the temps and stretching out the daylight. That means it's time to do a bit more rolling around myself.

So, when I saw the sun peaking out and the mercury sneaking past 50 this last Saturday morning, I decided it was a good a time as any to try my first "cir-Como-navigation" of Lago di Como. As you'd read in previous blogs, I had ridden near Lago di Como before but had kept to between Como and Bellagio, being content with climbing The Ghisallo and on up to Colma di Sormano. But, looking at the map, I've had the hankering to venture a bit further a field. Here's the 75 mile route I struck upon:


After hopping the train from Milan up to Como (A), we set out in the clockwise direction, stopping for lunch at a little village called San Siro (B), then rounded the top of the lake and crossed over by ferry from Varenna (C) to Bellagio (D) {cutting off the leg down to Lecco because it's a nasty stretch for riding} before heading back to Como.

But, it just occured to me that "we" begs an introduction.

Meet "The Yellow Flash"!

In case you're wondering, no, that's not the new "_ride" (that would be "Zio Tony Passoni"; and , yes, I still owe you a proper introduction ... that'll be coming soon; so, stay tuned). Flash came with me to Itay straight from "training camp" in Austin, TX. Flash is a Cervello and a "tri-bike" ("tri" for "triathlon" - but, when the Italians say it, it sounds like "tree-bike") or what can also be called a "time trial" bike. That means Flash is build with a premium on aerodynamics (including how the rider sits, hence the goofy handle bars) and does best on relatively flat terrain ... that's why he's the perfect buddy to roll around the lake with.

So, knowing that Flash prefers the flats, you can see why we kept to the edges "around" Lago di Como, and not too far off of it.



Be sure to let me know if this is boring you ...


If you're curious about how it looks like "from the handle bars", here're a few to give you an idea ...




Definitely the type of roads you want to keep "Occhi Fuori!" (Eye Out!). But overall, the Italians are pretty conscious and patient with cyclists on the roads - afterall, there're plenty of us about on nice weekend days like this one.

Here was the find of the day: "Ristorante Lauro" in San Siro, along the western shore. When I asked the proprietess how long she'd been there, she counted back three grandparents (and she's one herself) into the 1800's. Totally old school and totally good.


First course: Homemade fettucine with pesto.

I ate the second course (perch from the lake) before I thought about taking the picture. The large table next to me was served a production of "pizzocheri" which they wouldn't stop talking about - I'll have to come back just to try that.

After lunching & lolligagging up the western shore, I had to put the hammer down around the the top of the lake and back to Como before the sun went down ... and along the way "a yellow flash" met "The Yellow Flash"


Then finally, back in Como, I let The Flash cool his bearings while I took an Italian "ciocolato caldo" (hot chocolate) in Piazza del Duomo.


Ok, first long-ish ride of the season is in the books ... bring on the Spring!