Friday, May 26, 2023

My Madonna of Bicycles, Part II: The Hard Way

Ciao Zio Tony fans! Welcome back, to Part II of "My Madonna of Bicycles: A Pilgrimage to the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo". Now that you’ve done your the homework in reading Part I, “Why is there a Madonna of Bicycles?”, you can sit back, relax, and let Zio Tony do the sweating as he takes on “il Ghisallo”, the Hard Way.

So, slip on your virtual biking shoes and enjoy the ride! Here’s our route:


We’ll start at Como (E), ride along the lake to Bellagio (B), and then suffer the pilgrims climb to Ghisallo (C) like the countless devout cyclists that have come before us. If you think you got the game, let’s take on another climb to the 3800 ft summit at Colma di Sormano (D) followed by a real yahooooo descent down to the lake and our return to Como.

The first thing we need to do is get there from central Milan. Driving from Milan doesn’t make much sense, because simply driving in Milan doesn’t make much sense. Did you know, the first time I came out to Ghisallo with Max we rode our bikes straight out from the city? Boy, talk about a road skills test! And, I hadn’t realized that there are so many Italians named “Coglione”; but, Max is one of those guys who seems to know everybody.

Anyway, I’m sure I’d get lost trying that on my own; so, let’s hop the regular hourly train instead. Here you go, just stable your mount next to Ole’ Paint here, up front with the engi... what, doesn’t your bike have a name?


Well, that was a bit of a maze getting down to the waterfront from the station and then onto the lake road; but, it looks like you’re getting the hang of it around here - “sempre dritto” as they say. Now, all we’ve got are some nice rollers to warm-up on and a few lakefront villages to ride through and we’ll be at Bellagio in no time. But, keep an eye out for those road-crossing pedestrians around here; you don’t want to be knocking down Mr. Clooney or his buddy Bobby DiNiro do ya?



... Well, we made it to Bellagio ... what, me? Procrastinating? Yeah, I know I made such a big deal about riding out here for that “holy” climb ... but, just one caffe’?


OK, you asked for it, see you on top! ...


... Ouch, that hurt. Let’s rest the ponies at the hitching post and check the place out.


If you’ve done your homework (Part I), I think you’ll recognize what you find inside.







And over here, by the overlook above Lake Lecco, next to the new cycling museum, do I have to point out the “Agony and the Ecstasy” theme again?



Wow, the Museo del Ciclismo is like the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum, but for bikes!



Enough lolly-gagging, fill up your bottle with holy water and let’s get on that climb to Colma di Sormano ...

... Ok, that hurt. Hey, imagine that, another Madonna on a mountain top?


Whatever, I’m hungry let’s eat!



You’re right, that polenta and brassato really looked good, but, a tad too heavy for riding. The fettuccine with capriolo ragu’ hit the spot for me. How was your rigatoni with wild mushrooms and mixed beans? Hey, you don’t mind if I take the lead down, do you? ...

Wow, what a great descent. It really keeps you on your toes ... and on that outside pedal. More than halfway down, and still, what a view!



You know, I really haven’t been riding for that long; but, I’m gonna cry when I have to leave this place.


Way to go, nice strong finish back to Como! The scenery really gets you grooving, doesn't it? Makes you want to feel the burn, feel alive, huh? Well, I’m in no hurry now, the train doesn’t leave for 45 minutes. Want to take another caffe’?

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